more on sensitive skin with skin treatment professional Toni Elford…
Last week we explored sensitive skin from the perspective of natural skin care formulations and ingredients. This post addresses common sensitive skin concerns and questions. I hope it is helpful to you. (Please remember that the comments below are the views of an individual and not intended as professional advice for a persons skin treatment and condition.)
1) how would you define a “sensitive” skin? The characteristics of a sensitive skin can be very thin, fragile looking with a tendency to look pink or flushed.
There are 2 types of sensitive skin:
Hypersensitive – any skin type can suffer from hypersensitive and normally is a skin reaction that is superficial and starts when a product is applied. The sensitive skin client will experience a warming, tingling or itchy sensation and once the product is removed the skin will calm down after 30 to 60 mins.
Allergic sensitive – an allergic reaction to a product is rare but will normally occur on a deeper dermal level and the client will not experience anything immediately but will have a reaction within 6 to 24 hours and will experience swelling, severe redness and deep itchiness and will need to seek medical advice.
2) in your experience, what are the most irritating ingredients/factors to skin?
some of the most irritating ingredients can be certain preservative, colouring agents, ingredients with astringent properties, artificial fragrance and harsh abrasive ingredients
3) have you found that natural products are less irritating to skin than products containing chemical ingredients?
It really depends on the ingredients and each skin will react in a different way to different ingredients.
4) what are the key factors in selecting a product suited to sensitive skin?
Choosing products that are designed to calm and soothe the skin as well treating the skin gently whilst cleansing, exfoliating and ensure the water is always tepid not hot or cold. Try to avoid extremes in temperatures as well as over exposure to UV rays.
5) are there any other factors to sensitive skin, other than what we apply topically?
Yes try to avoid the following to ensure that a sensitive skin remains calm. Certain spicy food, coffee, red wine, saunas, steam baths and excessive sun exposure.
6) some natural ingredients can be irritating to the skin – what are the most common of these in your experience?
Some natural products can have a high concentration of essential oils that can also irritate the skin.
When treating a truly sensitive skin the less is more rule applies: less product, less stimulation and less heat as well as less time spent on your home care and that is something we all want.
In this post we take a look at sensitive skin, from the perspective of Sanctum’s Chemist, Warren Taylor. The topic of sensitive skin is so broad – symptoms, definitions and successful treatments differ between each individual, and of course there is more to skin care than what you put on your skin.
For many people common sense would suggest that chemicals would be generally more irritating and less soothing to the skin than natural products. Research also cautions us against the use of certain ingredients and preservatives.
Whilst it is true that natural ingredients can be irritating on the skin, we hear over an over from delighted customers “Sanctum is the only range, the only products that i can use on my skin without a irritating reaction.”
Below are some questions – answered by Chemist Warren Taylor that you may find interesting.
1) how would you define a “sensitive” skin?
This is really something you find by experience. It is one that is easily irritated, that is goes red or itchy. There is some difficulty in finding more basic causes for sensitive skin but certainly some involve allergies.
2) in your experience, what are the most irritating ingredients/factors to skin
Apart from the AHAs and the citrus juices containing them some essential oils are very irritating. Synthetic surfactants are also very irritating to about 20% of the population.
3) have you found that natural products are less irritating to skin than products containing chemical ingredients?
Yes and I think for 2 reasons. They will not contain synthetic surfactants and many natural ingredients have an anti-inflammatory effect.
4) what are the key factors in selecting a product suited to sensitive skin?
Knowledge of what products have caused an adverse reaction. With any luck an ingredient will stand out.
5) are there any other factors to sensitive skin, other than what we apply topically?
Sun and smoking have their role as do other allergic factors like pollen and pollution.
Thank you to everyone reading and commenting on the blog – it is fantastic to see so many people interested in truly natural skin care.
We have explored certified organic, logos and a little more about the Sanctum range and in this blog I have some insight in to a common skin question…”is it true that using products with oil in them will cause breakouts on oily skin?”
The information below is from the experience of a well known beauty therapistt. After her comments, i have included the comments from a leading natural skin care chemist.
“It is my belief that it is a myth that oil on the skin will cause break outs, however, there are some considerations that help us understand why breakouts may seem related to oils applied to the skin.
Often people with oily skins use stripping / high alcohol content products and then, when an oil is applied to the skin a break out can occur. I see this break out as an interim / transitional event only – due to the skin being confused from incorrect treatment initially. In the long term, certain oils are definitely more beneficial to the health of the skin than stripping products.
In my experience, we successfully use a ‘like treats like’ approach, where the correct oils will actually assist to balance an oily skin.
Importantly, the type of oil must be considered. Lighter planet based oils (jojoba, rosehip) penetrate the skin and do not sit on the skin. They can assist the skin correct an imbalance of oils.
Heavy, non-botanical oils have been found not to penetrate the skin, and therefore sit on the skin, having a clogging effect and causing break outs.”
And now words from the Chemist:
“I have yet to find a definitive list for comedogenic oils; most lists have different oils on them!
It is also fairly well accepted that despite the possibility of oils in a formulation being comedogenic the formulation itself may not be at all. Apparently there are cases of formulations being comedogenic even when they contained no oils thought of as poor in this respect.
There is also a wide variance of individual response and I suspect that some breakouts may result from emulsifiers used rather than oil in the product.”
Whilst it makes sense that oil skin needs no more oil added, we can see the inbalance caused by working against the body in an attempt to strip the oil away.
Avoiding chemical based oils and emulsifiers can also be a challenge as these may not be obvious within ingredients lists. You can make this simpler by selecting Certified Organic products (certified by one of the Australian Government approved bodies).
On behalf of all of the comments we receive from our customers, the best results by far have been achieved by getting to know your skin and working with the skin, using natural and pure ingredients.
If you would like assistance in selecting a product, you are welcome to email news@sanctumaustralia.com
Shortly I will create a post that takes a close look at SENSITIVE skin…what is it, what causes it and how you can treat it…
Sanctum products now proudly display the exact % of certified organic ingredients in every product!
From the early days…Sanctum has always adhered to the philosophy “truth within labelling”, that customers should be able to know what they are buying without false or misleading information.
When Sanctum was successfully certified as organic, by the OFC (Organic Food Chain – Cosmetic and Skincare standard), this meant that every single product contained at least 70% of certified organic ingredients. The remaining 30% of ingredients had to be safe, naturally derived and approved by the OFC – and may include, for example – water and salt and non certified botanical ingredients.
If you are interested in the exact standard an OFC certified company must work to, you can find the document here.
With constant formulation work, Sanctum chemists worked towards the highest percentage of certified organic ingredients that could be included whilst ensuring that each product maintained the active ingredients needed to produce noticeable improvements to the skin.
Whilst it is possible to create products almost entirely with certified organic ingredients – there are two distinct considerations: will the products be as effective on the skin, and will the products be suited to sensitive skins, including that of babies and infants? It is also necessary to consider the price and stability of the product – would it have to double, triple in price to obtain higher levels of certified organic ingredients? would the shelf life allow the product to maintain performance – or would it be a wasteful experience to both the customer and the company?
Aside from the company considerations – there are the individual preferences of every concerned and aware consumer…what is the most important to them – results, highest organic percentages?
Sanctum have taken a large step forward to clearly display the exact percentage of certified organic ingredients in each product. This labelling and packaging process began last year and now all products coming off of production (Sanctum products are all made in the beautiful Byron Bay shire) are labelled with the statement: **% Certified Organic, 100% Naturally Derived.
You will find this either on the front of the (recycled board) carton, or following the ingredient list. For example: Sanctum Men’s Facial Wash reads 92% Certified Organic, 100% Naturally Derived. Every certified organic ingredient is marked with a *.
Sanctum’s decision to display the exact organic percentages on each product, along with using the only internationally recognised labelling system gives customers the most specific information possible.
Why don’t more companies do it? Many labels reading “organic” contain no certified organic ingredients, and some certified organic products contain as little as 25% certified organic ingredients!
It’s great news for customers that Australian labelling is getting much stricter. We hope that Sanctum labelling makes your choices simpler…look out for Sanctum’s new labelling on shelves now…with certified organic percentages ranging from 70 – 100%!
Natural products are high in demand today and we can expect both better results and experiences with natural skin care. I spoke with Sanctum’s Chemist, Warren Taylor about how the natural skincare industry has evolved and advanced.
I hope you find this interesting and we welcome further questions…
How long have you been working with natural cosmetics?
I have been a working chemist for 3 decades. The last of these has been mainly formulating and manufacturing natural based cosmetics.
Would you say that it is more challenging to work with natural skin care as compared to conventional/mainstream products?
Certainly a decade ago it was very difficult. In fact impossible to make an organic product that would perform acceptably.
In the last few years various products have become available that allow us to make excellent quality all natural and organic products. A downside is that these materials generally have a higher cost. For instance, the cleansing agent in our organic shampoo is 3.5 times more expensive as that in supermarket shampoos!
Is it difficult to comply with organic certification standards?
If we speak of the Australian standard for export (a standard for products for domestic sale is final draft form now) we are speaking of a standard better than nearly every other one in the world. So our job here is more difficult than in Europe. Many of our products still only reach the level of ”contains organic ingredients”; so yes, it is difficult. Improving theses to meet the “Certified Organic” level is my major project. And if it were not secret I could give you good news!
How has natural skin care evolved over the past decades?
5 decades ago we used soap and vegetable oils. Quite natural but with major drawbacks. Over the next couple of decades chemistry developed a large number of products that were gentler and with a much greater range of desirable properties. In the last decade there has been the discovery (at ever increasing rates) of specific materials both synthetic and natural that have specific benefits like antiaging. The last half decade has given us natural based materials that perform as well as synthetics allowing us to make very desirable products that are also natural.
What are the issues you face as a Chemist with natural products and formulations?
With shampoos and conditioners we have raw materials that do an excellent job; the only issue is that they cost a lot more. With creams we can formulate products that perform well though there are some limitations on the sensorial qualities compared to creams that use synthetic raw materials. It is also impossible in a few cases to obtain products that are fully certifiable as organic, though they can be largely organic (and fully natural of course).
Are there any milestones / achievements in your career with Sanctum that stand out?
My first batch of 2 tonnes that failed. That really stands out!
It has been excellent that we have been able to produce a full range of products that are certifiable organic at one level or another. A decade ago it was not possible and given that only 3 other companies in Australia have been able to do it puts us in the front rank. I would say too that we Australians are at least as good as anyone in the world and better than most.
This interview reflects the opinion of the individual and has been provided for your interest.
Who uses Sanctum products…what is your Sanctum experience…when and how did you find Sanctum?
Over the decades Sanctum has maintained their philosophy of safe, natural based products that are cruelty free. Without much advertising,
Sanctum has almost certainly become a household name nationally.
In the past Sanctum has had its own stores, and now the only direct experience with our value customers is through our store adjoined to our factory in the Byron Bay Shire – a small (tiny) town called Billinudgel.
As we have expanded nationally and internationally we have always enjoyed connecting with our customers and hearing of their experiences with Sanctum. We are always delighted to see that people from all walks of life love Sanctum…and that somehow the name and brand has made its way in to the life of so many Australians. Perhaps from Rydges Hotels…or passing through Billinudgel on a holiday…
Amongst the stories we hear the most are that Sanctum products have been a saviour to many people with sensitive skin…many commenting that it is the only range they can use on their skin without causing irritation and breakouts.
Over the years, whether directly or indirectly through sales, we have created a range in response to what our customers have requested and liked. We have gone from natural to certified organic…labelled with the only international labeling standard.
Sanctum Customers are from all walks of life – young and elderly, local and from far away…and are ingredient savvy – aware of the impact of products on their health and our environment…
It’s a rewarding position for any company…adhering to original philosophies and becoming so widely known on such a small amount of advertising…and it has been possible because of our discerning and loyal customers!
We would love your Sanctum story...and welcome you to drop in to our Billinudgel factory store when you are passing through.
Hi Everyone, Happy New Year and thank you for visiting us…it’s great to see we have a lot of people reading and starting to be a part of this new blog!
We have taken a close look at certification and what it means to be organic, and you now have some informaiton about Sanctum as a company…so in this post, let’s look now at products and results!
Sanctum alwyas have at least one full time Chemist who is continually working to bring the best products – this means re-formulating to include new or better forms of ingredients to give you visable, noticable effects on your skin. In the raplidy evolving industries of skinc are and organics, we need to constantly monitor advances to ensure our products are the most effective they can be.
Over the years, some favorite or “hero” products have emerged, with sales and all feedback showing us excellent results on improving skin appearance and texture. Some of our most regular feedback is people with sensitive skin who have not been able to use other skincare without reacting with rashes, break outs or similar.
Our “hero” product is, ( without a doubt) HY C Recovery Serum – this product has a safe and natural form of Vitamin C – Soidum Ascorbyl Phosphate – which is stable on this skin, allowing it to offer hours or protection and benefit to the skin. This product is a water based serum – suited to almost all skin types and loaded with a host of botanical ingredients.
The wonderful feedback we hear over and over again is smoother, more even skin. Long term users feel as though their skin ages very well.
Apart from feeling good about consuming a cruelty free, Australian and Certified Organic product, we want you to look good, and be confident that Sanctum products are formulated to bring you excellent results.
With the words natural and organic often displayed all over chemical laden products, consumers are now being told to purchase products that are CERTIFIED ORGANIC. But does certified organic mean that a product is safe or free of chemicals…does it mean that it is made of entirely certified organic ingredients and free of harmful preservatives?….NO – unfortunately, even these official organic certifications do not ensure you are purchasing a truly natural ingredient. Let’s take a closer look at organic certification.
Organic Certification is different all over the world. Even within one country, the certification standards differ. Did you know that a product certified by a popular international certifier could contain only 10% certified organic ingredients AND chemical preservatives and additives are allowed?
A big issue for many people is the fact that many international certifiers are not independent – that is, they are created by brands
who then essentially “certify” themselves.
So what is a consumer to do? The good news is that Australia leads the way with organic certification. The main reason Australian standards are so high is due to the fact that they have NOT been developed by skincare companies which all have an interest in selling their products. All ingredients must be natural derived 100% not 95% or 85% or whatever and all products must either have 70% organic content (certified organic ingredients) or more than 95% (“Certified Organic”). One widely used European certifier endorses products with only 10% organic content.
Worldwide, another high standard certifier is USDA – their standard is for 100% natural and a minimum of 95% certified organics. All Sanctum products are created by 100% naturally derived ingredients and all contain at least 70% certified organic ingredients with 12 products containing over 95% certified organic ingredients.
Sanctum is proudly certified by the OFC under their specific skin care regulations.
Always look for an Australian certified organic product – it is your only guarantee that the product you are buying is truly organic.
It is a great question – with all of the truths uncovered and the many that are not…how do you really know what you are buying?
As a consumer, you can do your research as to what is on the labels, and then you really are trusting a company that the ingredients are correct and safe. Let’s take a closer look at how you can tell whether a product is true to labeling;
Sanctum has always embodied the philosophy of truth within labeling. We don’t ask that you simply believe us – we get independent companies to audit and assess the products that we make.
Here are some examples of how seriously we take this philosophy…we are certified organic by the OFC. This not only checks that we use over 75% certified organic ingredients in our products – it also ensures that these products are safe and naturally derived. Not every certifier is this strict. Some allow chemicals and nature identical compounds. The OFC does not.
It is also not enough to be natural because some naturally derived ingredients are not safe or are of questionable safety. To keep our certification, we must avoid all unsafe ingredients and all artificial ingredients.
Becoming certified and keeping that certification means that Sanctum is randomly audited and must adhere to strict policies – or we would lose our certification.
Sanctum has also selected to use the internationally recognized labeling code INCI. This allows the consumer to understand exactly what ingredient has been added to a product. Sanctum also need to do this as we export to the world.
Official logos offer more comfort to the customer because the company has been independently assessed and monitored to ensure that they adhere to specific standards.
Soon we will take a look in more detail at the different standards of organic certification – and then you will see why we chose to be certified by the Australian Government approved OFC.
